A sodden summer evening and I’m back down at Three Locks Square on a reviewing mission for the second time in less than a year. The last time it was to eat oysters, burgers and a — frankly ridiculous — potato ice cream with caviar, a dish with more than a whiff of ‘end of days’ about it. That was the offering at Allta bar late last year — now I’m at Allta proper to mark my wedding anniversary and present my husband with medals for long service and endurance.
Over the year and a half since it opened, Niall Davidson has tried different strategies to encourage lazy punters to make the trek down to the end of Grand Canal Dock but I think with the introduction of his new tasting menu alongside shorter set menus for lunch and dinner, and large-format main dishes of ex-dairy beef, suckling pig and wild fish to share, Allta may have found its sweet spot. Find out more here.
